Shady Characters

When I first started gardening, I carefully planned gardens in the sunniest location on my property, filling these areas to overflowing with blossoms. Then, over the years, I moved to new houses that required gardens in shaded sites. Although originally frustrated that I couldn't achieve the same showy displays, I ultimately discovered that there was something appealing about gardening in the shade. Magical things happened when plants were placed under the protection of a large tree canopy. 

Shade prevents the soil from drying out.

Weeds are easier to control.

 Many shade plants are perennial; spread easily; and require less attention each year .

Brilliant greens stand out in the lower light.

White leaves "glow in the dark".

Glossy leaves shimmer.

Leaf textures and shapes add interest and tactile pleasure.

Subtle colors stand out, even without blossoms.

Yellow leaves radiate their own sunlight.

I've come to appreciate the subtle beauty of shade gardens. If you're just beginning to explore shade gardening, Carolyn Harstad's Got Shade and Larry Hodgson's Making the Most of Shade are excellent resources. 

Mulch Tree Base with Minimal Digging

After

Before

We planted three small trees on our property 8 years ago, placing recycled tire mats around each base. Over the years we have cut away more and more of the mats' centers as the trunks' diameters have grown, and then finally removed the mats altogether.

This year we decided to enlarge all the mulch "skirts", providing protection; enabling easier mowing; and improving their appearance. Since each of the trees: dogwood, witch hazel, and Japanese maple, have roots growing close to the surface, it was important to avoid disturbing the roots. I used a modified version of the minimal digging edging technique I use for large perennial border gardens, in order to protect the root systems.

1.  I tied a string loosely around the trunk of the trees to mark the edging line.

2.  I used an edging shovel to cut a large circle in the sod around the circumference of the new skirt.  I made a second cut a shovel's width in from the end of the string.  (When I was digging down, I was very aware of the roots and avoided cutting roots that gave resistance.)  I then dug a line to connect the two circumference cuts, so it gave the appearance of a railroad track.

3.  I removed the sod with a hand held fork (cultivator), being careful to avoid damaging the roots.
(I was not able to cut as deeply into the ground as I would for a typical garden edge.)

4.  I pushed back the chips and covered the remaining sod with recycled thick brown paper...

or multiple layers of newspaper.

5. Then, added 3" - 4" of mulch to cover the paper and the bare soil.

The paper will kill the grass while it decomposes--saving me hours of digging. By covering, rather than pulling up, the inner sod, I avoid disturbing many small roots. The grass will be gone and the paper barely recognizable by next year. The mulch will protect the tree from mowers and weed-wacker; help keep the soil moist; keep weeds at bay; and look more proportionality appropriate under the larger trees.

The Colors of Spring

Though there have been few April showers this year, the May flowers are plentiful. If you look closely, there are already dozens of flowers suitable for   pressing to preserve their beauty.

After hunting in my gardens for a few minutes, my flower press was overflowing with a variety of ground cover flowers, tree blossoms, freshly emerging leaves, and delicate perennials. 

Once the flowers have had a month to dry, we'll let them inspire us. 

Flower Art

Create art using a palette 

of dried flowers.

June 5^th    

7:00 - 8:30 P.M.

at the Pawling Library, 

Pawling, NY

  Registration is required: 845-855-3444

Other posts on flower pressing:

Capture the Moment with a Flower Press

Constructing a Flower Press